Since leaving Lui and Honduras I have been wet. Now the term wet is thrown around very liberally, especially by us Brits, but I think I may have found out what wet really means. I swear the onset of trench-foot has been a close reality. It has been pouring so hard that my kangaroo leather riding gloves have actually started to rot, and I might add, begun to support new life forms. Basically I smell, and I smell bad!
The smelling is normally a problem as it tends to repel anyone who may be a good conversationalist, however it has proven to have some really good points which I shall come on to in a bit.
So I left Honduras and headed quite a few miles of the Nicaraguan Border. This ride was Ok but with the dog count decreasing with every mile, and therefore so was my entertainment for the day. I finally arrived at some random border town to stay the night. Ate a hunk of cow nose in a taco and went to sleep.
The next day, once again the border was a breeze! So far (I say cautiously) I'm not sure what people are moaning about. Anyway off I head towards a main road between the border and Leon on the Pacific side. This main road is terrible. (see pic) So bad in fact that I half destroy my head bearings on my bike and ride the next 100 miles with the front end falling apart. I am not joking when I say some of the pot holes are as big as a London semi-detached in floor space. They are massive! And to add to the hazard they are full of water.
Anyhow, the night before I had organized to stay with someone I met who had also biked the Americas, his place is just outside Managua. I arrive there mid afternoon.
Salvador, my host is a top man, and full of useful info about the next leg of my trip. Also he also managed to fill me full of rum, so the next day was a balance of repairing the bike, teaching his employee English and trying not to vomit. I think I managed all to some degree.
I had a great time at Salavadors and it really made my stay in Nicaragua, as I didn't have much time to see anything else. The reason being is that I have found a boat to Colombia!! YES! So currently I am rushing down to catch it on Wednesday. (Ludwig, kiss my arse! clearly your sea sick cat got the better of me, and you never replied!)
I wish I could comment of the beauty of Nicaragua and 90% of Costa Rica, but with the rain I could see nothing at all. I'm sure it is very nice though, and in fact I am feeling pretty annoyed by not having time to see more of the area.
So after a good night I left in yes, more rain to head to Costa Rica and a friend of the families place. The rain is still unreal! So bad that the road keeps on colapsing, and as always the standard warning of an imminent 6ft hole the size of a two up two down...? yes you've got it, a small twig in the road.
The border to Costa Rica was the worst yet (I knew I spoke too soon!) So much sodding paper work it was a joke. By the time I cleared it, it was about 7.30 pm, totally dark and raining so as I always seem to do, I end up camping in some diesel smelling mud at the back of a petrol station. (Life doesn't get any better than this!)
The next day was a long ride towards San Jose and up a mountain to our family friends place. The drive was horrendous. More rain than ever. Please understand that after 3 days of putting on soaking wet clothes which smell much like Swampy the hippy of the Newbury Bypass I had almost had enough, until..... I get stopped by the police for speeding. Yes Evil old me is doing a gruesome 55 mph in the middle of the jungle on a main road where everyone else does 70 +, and of course I should have known the real limit was 38mph. Pah! ''yes please Mr Mendus that will be $50" says the nice policeman. I then put on my sad face (see smiling photos of me anywhere) but it doesn't work. He says I need to go to court on Tue. I look surprised (see photos of me after bad taco!.. ref Mex. sept 07) Yet again it doesn't work.....Then, my luck turns, slowly, ever so slowly the policeman edges closer to me, until yes, he catches a whiff of me. As he leaps back in repulsion I quickly point to my tent and say I have no money. This does it! I catch him in a dizzy spell, and with a look of disbelief he say ''Mr Mendus, you really don't have any money do you!?'') No, I reply, he then proceeds to rip up the ticket, look sorry for me and wished me good luck and a bath. What a top man!
On I ride in the rain for a few more hours, past a 10 mile traffic jam, as more road has been washed away and finally I reach my destination up a volcano. And what can I say! What utter luxury! I have the nicest room, a bath, oh sweet Jesus, a bath! and great food and great company. To top it off I have washed my things, dried out my clothes and beaten the onset of trench foot. And as a final pat on the back I got to see England beat France! It doesn't get any better than this, I assure you.
After a great rest in Cost Rica I was forced to leave in order to reach Panama for my boat. (Michael, if you read this, thanks for all your hospitality, it was great to see you, the house and to recover from all that rain!) It was a really long ride to David in Panama over what is a fairly short distance. This was due to about 20 landslides which really didn't make life easy on the road. The road I wanted to take had been washed away so the main Pan-Am was the only route open. Numerous times I found myself stuck behind diggers desperately moving landslide before the next one slipped down. The rain (to no surprise) was terrible again. All my nice clean dry clothes where but a distant memory.
I crossed the border into Panama with a bit of hassle as there were huge numbers of people waiting to clear customs. This was (I hate to say it) the first time I had to grease the palm of anyone, but it was getting dark so I was forced to speed up the process by giving the short fat grumpy customs man $1. And he still wouldn't smile!
Off I rode heading towards Boquete near David, to the house of Paul, another bike rider I met in Guatamala. I got totally lost on the way and it was really dark. I stopped off at a petrol station to try get directions. The owner was useless but then a bus stopped. What luck I thought, someone must know. Then the driver got out and claimed he knew where to go, but just before he wanted to leave he felt it necessary to get a bashing stick out of his bus to beat up some guy who hadn't paid. So there I was lost in Panama in the dark watching some 4 ft man get softened by the drivers bashing stick. (advise: don't skip bus fares here)
After the driver had shined his stick back up and wiped the victims slobber off it he said we could leave and I could follow. Now most people would be slightly wary of following a man who had just clubbed a fare jumper like a young seal pup but at this stage I didn't care, so off we went. The next part was franky a joke, this man had no idea where to go, I followed him down roads I knew were wrong for about 30 mins, but every time I tried to escape he insisted it was right. Finally we arrived at some hut with a moped outside it. Not at all what I wanted, but I had to look pleased and say it was right just to get him to leave. I was worried he wouldn't leave leave until I knocked on the door of the odd looking shack, but finally he pulled away. Back I ride to civilization where I finally find a phone that works. Eventually I arrive at Pauls.
I couldn't really have asked for more hospitality from a man who hardly knew me, he gave me a bed, food and a workshop to do a well needed major service on the bike. I got to meet his family and friends, and everyone was very kind indeed (again, if you are reading this Paul, thanks very much to you and your family, better than spending yet another night in a petrol station!)
The next day me and Paul worked on the bike. The first wash it has had in months was an emotional experience I can tell you. We replaced the rear tyre (tyre number 5) as well as the front and rear sprocket (which were so far gone the teeth had become curved like a circular saw!) and chain and the pads. I also got rid of the really annoying exhaust noise, cleaned the filter and a few other things. Here I finally have a nice feeling bike again.
I left Pauls place yesterday to get to Panama City. Once again I got soaked and I arrived in the city after dark. To top this off I later found out I wads in a really dangerous area, and due to this I bumped into some police on bikes. Of course the first thing they say is, wow what size is the engine! and after that we got chatting. After he told me that there were many 12 yr olds running round with guns I was more than happy to except his offer of a police escort through the city! yes, I got a police escort right into the center with lights and sirens. It was quality. And to top it off he took me via a disturbance and he asked me to wait while went to beat a few people up. It was so funny. At last I looked important and the car drivers looked scared off me.... about bloody time!
So after being lost for an hour or so more as it turned out my police escort had taken me to the wrong street I finally found a hostel, and it is here were firstly I have re-discovered the missing millions of Australia, but also I wait for my boat, which now leaves on Thursday not Wednesday. So I hope you all enjoy the world cup final whilst I stuck with captain Pugwash on his sinking tub for 5 days.
Right enough said. Next post, new continent. So here were are, finally I have completed the whole length of North America. Christ it was a long old way!
tyres used: 5
miles completed: 16,000
road kills: sorry still the same, but I'm trying my best, the wildlife is getting too cunning!
Comments